Harper Lin
Bleeding the brakes on a Volkswagen Golf Mk IV (1999-2005) can be done through pressure bleeding or vacuum bleeding. Pressure bleeding involves using a reservoir of brake fluid with positive air pressure placed on the opposite side of the fluid, forcing it into the brake system. Vacuum bleeding involves filling the reservoir and then applying a vacuum to pull the fluid through the system. It is recommended to repeat the procedure several times to ensure that all trapped air is removed from the system. The process typically takes 2-3 hours if replacing the brake fluid entirely or 1 hour if just bleeding the brakes.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Models | Volkswagen Golf GTI Mk IV (1999-2005) |
| VW Golf Mk5 | |
| VW Golf Tdi | |
| Methods | Pressure bleeding |
| Vacuum bleeding | |
| Tools | Motive Products Bleeder |
| Brake bleeding kit | |
| Eezi bleed | |
| Brake fluid | 1.5 litres of new brake fluid |
| DOT4 fluid | |
| Racing brake fluid | |
| Time | 2-3 hours for replacing brake fluid |
| 1 hour for bleeding brakes |
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What You'll Learn
Pressure bleeding vs. vacuum bleeding
There are two popular methods of bleeding the brake system: pressure bleeding and vacuum bleeding. Pressure bleeding uses a reservoir of brake fluid that has a positive air pressure force placed on the opposite side of the fluid, which forces it into the brake system. A pressure bleeder can be used to pressurize the brake fluid to a desired pressure. The Motive Products Bleeder is a good tool for pressure bleeding. The pump-and-hold method is a form of pressure bleeding where one technician pumps the brake pedal several times and then holds the pedal down to maintain pressure in the system.
Vacuum bleeding, on the other hand, involves filling the reservoir and then applying a vacuum at the bleeder nipple to pull fluid through the system. A vacuum pump can be hand-operated, shop air-powered, or electric. The Mity-Vac is a commonly used vacuum bleeder. The vacuum bleeding method is great for sucking fluid out of the master cylinder, so you can flush with just clean fluid. However, it may not be great for an initial bleed to ensure your lines are bubble-free.
Some people prefer pressure bleeding because they don't have to move the main tank from one wheel to another. They can simply slip on a hose and turn the bleeder until they see the new fluid. It is also easier to see when everything is purged with pressure bleeding. However, pressure bleeding can be messier if something goes wrong as it can cause brake fluid to spill out, which can eat paint.
Both pressure and vacuum bleeding can be combined with an ABS-capable scan tool to conduct a more thorough brake system flushing service. This will help remove more of the old brake fluid and sediment, reducing the chance that ABS components will be damaged by remaining moisture or sediment.
It is important to note that the brake system must always be flushed prior to reverse bleeding, which is a form of pressure bleeding. Additionally, the gravity method, which is a low-pressure technique, may not effectively dislodge sludge or other materials that have accumulated in the system.
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Using a jack and removing wheels
Jacking up your car and removing the wheels is the first step in bleeding your brakes. This will give you access to the brake bleeder valve. It is important to note that the procedure for bleeding brakes can vary from car to car, so make sure to follow the correct procedure for your vehicle. If you are doing this for the first time, it is recommended to have a professional with you.
To begin, use a jack to lift the car and secure it on jack stands. Make sure to shake the vehicle lightly to ensure it is secure and will not fall. Remove all four wheels. If you are removing the wheels, it is recommended to support the car on axle stands for better access to the caliper bleed valves. However, depending on the access, you may be able to bleed your brakes with the car on the ground, on its wheels. Remember, if you are lifting the car, always support it securely with axle stands and never get underneath a car supported only by a jack.
Once the car is securely lifted and the wheels are removed, you can start the brake bleeding process. Before starting, check that the brake fluid reservoir is full. Locate the four caliper bleeding screws and carefully loosen them, using oil if necessary. Make sure to tighten the screws as each brake needs to be bled one at a time. The sequence usually goes from front to rear, starting with the brake furthest from the master cylinder and working your way towards it.
Now, attach one end of the plastic tubing to the caliper bleeder valve and place the other end in a receptacle to catch the old brake fluid. A simple brake fluid catcher can be made using a plastic water bottle with a piece of hose inserted through a hole in the cap. Ensure that the hose is submerged in the fluid. With a wrench, carefully open the bleeder valve.
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Filling the system with brake fluid
Before filling the system, it is essential to jack up the car and remove all four wheels for better access to the caliper bleed valves. It is also recommended to use a different-coloured brake fluid to easily determine when fresh fluid has been flushed through the entire system.
To fill the system with brake fluid, start by connecting the brake bleeder reservoir cap to the fluid reservoir on the car. Ensure that the handbrake is off. Pressurise the bleeder to about 10 psi, being careful not to exceed this pressure as it could damage internal seals in the master cylinder.
The next step is to locate the bleed nipple and open it with a spanner. Allow approximately 50 ml of brake fluid to flow out, then close the nipple. Depress the clutch pedal 10 to 15 times quickly and then open the nipple again to let another 50 ml of fluid out. Repeat this process for each caliper, moving in the following order: right rear caliper, left rear caliper, right front caliper, left front caliper. This sequence minimises the amount of air that enters the system.
Make sure you do not run out of brake fluid in the reservoir during the process, as this will require starting over. It is recommended to start with at least a half-gallon of brake fluid in the pressure bleeder and have an additional half-gallon on hand as a reserve.
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Bleeding order: right rear, left rear, right front, left front
Bleeding your brakes is an essential part of replacing brake fluid. This process involves ridding the brake system of trapped air, which can enter the system during a fluid change. Over time, brake fluid loses its moisture resistance and begins to absorb water, which can corrode key parts of the system.
To bleed the brakes of a Mk4 Golf, start with the right rear caliper, the one furthest away from the master cylinder. Attach a hose to the bleed nipple, place the other end in a jar, and open the valve by turning the bleeder nipple counter-clockwise with an 11mm wrench.
Once you have finished bleeding the right rear caliper, move on to the left rear caliper, followed by the right front, and finally the left front. Bleeding in this order will minimise the amount of air that gets into the system and reduce the potential for cross-contamination between old and new fluid. Repeat the process for each caliper until you can no longer see any air bubbles coming out.
It is important to note that you should never allow the reservoir to run empty during the process. Start with about half a gallon of brake fluid in the pressure bleeder and have another half a gallon on reserve. Only use new brake fluid from a sealed can, as brake fluid is hydroscopic and will attract water and water vapour, diminishing its performance.
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Using a brake bleeding kit
Firstly, jack up the car and remove all four wheels. It is important to ensure the car is securely supported with axle stands and to never get underneath a car supported by a jack.
Next, fill the brake bleeder with new brake fluid, ensuring it is the correct grade and unopened. A full brake bleeding kit will have a bottle that can be filled with brake fluid and pressurised with air from an internal hand pump. You should pressurise the bottle to around 10 psi, as higher pressure could damage the internal seals in the master cylinder.
Now, attach the bleeder to the top of the reservoir cap and open the bleed nipple until brake fluid starts to flow. You should not remove the bleed nipple completely, only undoing it half a turn. You need to extract at least 200ml of fluid from this caliper. If the fluid is old, you may see a colour change, with old fluid being darker. Once you have extracted enough fluid and the fluid is running clear and free from bubbles, tighten the bleed nipple.
Repeat this process for the remaining calipers, ensuring you maintain the pressure in the bleeder and topping up the fluid as necessary. It is recommended to bleed the calipers in the following order to minimise the amount of air that gets into the system: right rear, left rear, right front, left front.
Finally, bleed the two bleed nipples on the master cylinder and clean all the fluid off. Test the vehicle by driving on a quiet road and getting up to 30 mph before slamming on the brakes so the ABS engages. Do this 3-4 times to ensure the system is working correctly.
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