Ava Romero
Building a golf green is a complicated and expensive process, requiring time, resources and commitment. Many golf enthusiasts build golf greens in their backyards to practice putting without having to travel to a golf course and pay fees. The process involves excavating the area, designing slopes, installing drainage and irrigation systems, and selecting the right grass type for the region. Synthetic greens are a more cost-effective option, requiring less maintenance and specialised equipment compared to natural grass greens.
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Excavation and design
When designing a golf green, it is important to consider the size and shape of the area. The size of the green can vary, sometimes upwards of 600m2, depending on the change in levels and the number of lobes incorporated into the design. The shape of the green should be a realistic and tempting target for the golfer, with at least part of the green visible from the landing area of the approach.
Another important consideration is the type of grass to be used. The grass should be suitable for the region's climate. For example, creeping bentgrass, a cool-season grass that thrives in northern climates, is widely considered the best for premium putting greens. It has finely textured blades that allow balls to roll easily and smoothly. In hot southern climates, hybrid Bermudagrasses can provide good performance, with stiff, upright leaves that allow good ball movement.
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Drainage and irrigation
When constructing a golf green, the rootzone, which is made up of sand, soil, and organic matter, is installed in layers. The first layer is sand, providing drainage and aeration. This is followed by a layer of soil, which provides nutrients for the grass, and then a layer of organic matter to retain moisture and nutrients. Once this rootzone has been established, the green can be seeded and sodded, and the drainage system installed.
There are various drainage systems available, such as the Turfdry Drainage System, which uses Hydraway Sportsdrain installed at 2-metre intervals, and AirDrain by AirField Systems, which provides 100% vertical drainage. These systems are designed to handle heavy rainfall and prevent water buildup, ensuring the green remains playable. Proper grading of the ground layer is also important to enable natural drainage.
In terms of irrigation, a system is necessary to water the green and maintain its health. Residential sprinkler systems are recommended for golf greens as they operate at lower pressures and are less expensive. Adequate and even irrigation is key, and it is important to water the green regularly, with the amount depending on the climate and grass type. Watering in the early morning can reduce water loss to evaporation.
Deep, infrequent irrigation encourages healthy grass roots. To determine when the green needs water, look for footprints that fail to spring back or grass that takes on a blue-purple tint. Mowing and aerating the green regularly are also important for maintenance, with aeration improving drainage and air circulation.
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Grass type
The grass type you choose for your golf green is important as it determines the speed and smoothness of the game. The grass should be suited to your region and climate. For instance, creeping bentgrass is a cool-season grass that thrives in northern climates and is widely considered the best for premium putting greens. Its finely textured blades allow balls to roll easily, with less resistance, for smooth, fast play. The University of Arkansas recommends creeping bentgrass for backyard putting greens. Late summer and early fall are prime times for creeping bentgrass green establishment.
In hot southern climates, hybrid Bermudagrasses are a better choice. The stiff, upright leaves allow good ball movement; the ball moves across the cut tips, unimpeded by soft, bending blades. However, Bermudagrass greens usually play slower than bentgrass greens. Bermudagrass establishes best during late spring and early summer.
If you opt for natural grass, you will need to mow the greens daily at 1/8 inch or lower, apply pest control products, and aerate the grass. This requires specialized and expensive equipment, as well as knowledge of golf course maintenance.
Synthetic grass is far less expensive to maintain than natural grass. With synthetic grass, you simply need to keep the surface free of debris and work some sand into the green occasionally. There are no chemical applications or irrigation systems to worry about. However, the surface will eventually show signs of wear, and you may need to replace it after about 10 years, depending on the frequency of use.
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Maintenance
Maintaining a golf green can be a complicated and expensive endeavour. For natural grass greens, specialised and expensive equipment is required for daily mowing, and pest control products must be applied by licensed professionals. Adequate, even irrigation is also key to keeping turf healthy.
Synthetic greens are far less expensive to maintain than natural grass greens. There are no chemical applications or irrigation systems to worry about, and you simply need to keep the surface free of debris. The surface will eventually show signs of wear, but it should be about 10 years before replacement is needed, unless the green is receiving a lot of use.
When it comes to the type of grass, this should suit the region. For instance, creeping bentgrass is considered the best for premium greens in northern climates, whereas in hot southern climates, hybrid Bermudagrasses are a better option.
Topdressing is another important maintenance consideration. Golf courses often topdress at three-week intervals, but for a home green, this only needs to be done twice per year—once in early May and again in late September. For native soil putting greens, top with a 1/8-inch layer of the same soil used in the green's foundation. Go over the surface with a standard push broom, and work the topdressing down into the turf to keep your green firm, fast and smooth.
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Construction
Constructing a golf green is a complex and expensive process. The first step is to excavate the area to a depth of 20 inches (51 cm). It is important to remove all existing sod to prevent weeds from growing. The green should be designed with a variety of slopes to increase difficulty, but ultimately slope away from the centre to prevent puddles from forming. If there is a depression in the green, a drainpipe must be installed to carry away water. An irrigation system may also be necessary to keep the turf healthy.
The next step is to select the type of grass that is most suitable for the region. For northern climates, creeping bentgrass is widely considered the best option for premium putting greens. Its finely textured blades allow balls to roll easily, resulting in smooth and fast play. In hot southern climates, hybrid Bermudagrasses are a better choice. While Bermudagrass greens play slower than bentgrass greens, the stiff, upright leaves still allow for good ball movement.
When it comes to the foundation of the green, sandy loam soil is ideal for most backyard greens. However, commercial greens require a heavy-duty subsurface and root zone corrections, replacing native soil with carefully composed, pre-mixed layers of gravel and other materials to withstand continuous course traffic.
Finally, the green should be top-dressed with screened native soil or sand to improve speed and discourage thatch. Golf courses typically top-dress at three-week intervals, but for a backyard green, twice a year is sufficient.
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Frequently asked questions
Building a golf green involves excavating the area to a depth of 20 inches (51 cm) and removing all existing sod to prevent weeds from growing. The green should be designed with a variety of slopes, ultimately sloping away from the centre to prevent puddles. Drainage and irrigation systems are installed, and the green is then topped with grass that suits the region.
The type of grass used for a golf green depends on the region's climate. For northern climates, creeping bentgrass is widely considered the best option for premium putting greens due to its finely textured blades that allow balls to roll easily. For hot southern climates, hybrid Bermudagrasses are recommended as the stiff, upright leaves allow good ball movement.
Synthetic golf greens are far less expensive to maintain than natural grass greens. They do not require specialised equipment, chemical applications, or irrigation systems. Synthetic greens only need to be kept free of debris, and sand may need to be worked into the green occasionally.
