Nina Caldwell
Installing coilovers on a Mk1 Golf can be a complex process, but it's definitely achievable with the right tools and parts. While there are many options for coilover kits, such as the CEIKA Custom Coilovers, the Hotuning Set, and the Jamex Extreme Kit, it's important to consider factors like customization, quality, and performance when making a decision. The installation process involves adjusting the ride height, preparing the necessary tools and parts, and carefully following the steps outlined in guides provided by experienced Mk1 Golf enthusiasts. With proper planning and execution, you can successfully fit coilovers to enhance the handling and performance of your Mk1 Golf.
Characteristics and Values Table for Installing Coilovers on a Mk1 Golf
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Tools needed | 13mm spanner and socket, 17mm spanner and socket, 22mm "swan neck" spanner, C-spanner, Tape measure, Water pump pliers (or mole grips), Allen Keys, Magnetic camber measure (optional) |
| Parts needed | Coilovers, New top mounts (Febi recommended), New top mount spacers (optional), New rear bolts and nuts (optional), Motorbike chain wax (Castrol recommended) |
| Installation steps | Spray chain wax on coilovers, Fit new top mounts to front shocks, Slacken coilovers, Place top mount on shock, Insert new spacer, Screw on nut, Wind coilovers up at least 5cm, Measure height from centre of wheel to arch, Loosen wheel bolts, Jack up car, Remove rear wheels, Remove bolt at bottom of each shock, Wind coils down, Screw on nut |
| Tips | Leave out helper springs, Cut bump stops to 1 inch, Do back springs first, Adjust height of collars after installation, Cut off seized bolts |
| Budget coilover kits | Hotuning Set (Tuning Art), Jamex Extreme Kit, Bilstein Febi |
| Custom coilover kits | CEIKA Custom Coilovers, GAZ Coilovers |
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What You'll Learn
Required tools and parts
Tools
- 13mm spanner and socket
- 17mm spanner and socket
- 22mm "swan neck" spanner
- C-spanner
- Tape measure
- Water pump pliers (or mole grips)
- Allen keys
- Magnetic camber measure (not necessary)
Parts
- Coilovers
- New top mounts (Febi seem to be the best)
- New top mount spacers (not necessary but cost pennies)
- New rear bolts and nuts (probably but not always)
- Motorbike chain wax (Castrol is good)
- New shock
- New spacer
- Lower bolt and nut
- Rear rubber bearings
Additional parts and tools (not essential)
- Cling film
- Duck tape
- Chisel
- Thread locker
- Strut spreader
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Adjusting the coilovers
Adjusting the height of your coilovers is a simple process, as long as you don't need to make any major adjustments. Before fitting them, wind the coils up or down to get them close to your desired height to make the process even easier. If you want to go very low, you should cut the bump stops in half and remove the helper springs.
There are two types of coilovers: partially threaded and fully threaded. Partially threaded coilovers raise and lower the car by raising or lowering the height of the spring. To lower the car, turn the collars down the shock body, and to raise it, turn them up. Fully threaded coilovers have independent ride height and spring pre-load adjustments. To adjust the ride height, unlock collar C with an adjustment wrench and turn it counter-clockwise. Then, spin the lower spindle mount up or down the coilover to adjust the height.
You can also adjust the camber by loosening the four Allen head bolts on the top of the coilover and moving the coilover inwards or outwards. Adjusting the camber can result in increased tire wear. For softer damping, turn the adjusting knob counter-clockwise, and for stiffer damping, turn it clockwise.
After making adjustments, it is recommended to get the camber and tracking done by a garage to ensure everything is set up correctly.
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Removing the wheels
First, loosen the wheel bolts on the rear wheels. You will need a jack to raise the car, so place it under the rear cross member and jack up the car to a sufficient height. For safety, it is important to use axel stands with a block of wood under the rear jacking points of the car. Make sure these are positioned on the body of the car and not on the beam, as this needs room to swing down when you remove the jack.
Once the car is securely on the axel stands, you can remove the rear wheels. There is one bolt at the bottom of each shock, which may be seized and rusted solid. You can either undo or cut off these bolts, depending on their condition. With the bolts removed, you can now carefully remove the rear wheels.
This process will give you access to the necessary areas to continue with the coilover installation. Remember to work safely and use appropriate tools and safety equipment when working on your vehicle.
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Installing the coilovers
Firstly, gather the necessary tools and parts. You will need various spanners, sockets, a tape measure, water pump pliers, Allen keys, and possibly a magnetic camber measure. In terms of parts, you will require coilovers, new top mounts, top mount spacers, rear bolts and nuts, and motorbike chain wax.
Before beginning the installation, it is recommended to spray the coilovers with wax, such as Castrol chain wax, to protect them. You may also choose to cover them with cling film and duct tape for added protection.
Now, you can start the installation. Begin by loosening the wheel bolts and jacking up the car. Place axle stands with a block of wood under the rear jacking points of the car, ensuring they are not on the beam. Once the car is secure, remove the rear wheels. There is usually one bolt at the bottom of each shock, which may be seized and rusted solid. You can undo or cut these off.
Next, wind the coilovers up by at least 5 cm, and preferably 10 cm, using a C-spanner. This step is important to ensure you have enough clearance to remove your jack. Construct the rears by winding down the coils and screwing on the nut with water pump pliers. Measure the height from the centre of the wheel to the arch to know how far you have dropped the car.
Finally, fit new top mounts to your front shocks. You may also need to fit a spacer, lower bolt, nut, rear rubber bearings, and rear bolt and nut. Slacken the coilovers right off so they are sitting at the bottom. Place the top mount on the shock and insert the spacer. Screw on the nut, and when the thread starts to bite, place your swan neck spanner and an Allen key through the centre.
You can adjust the height of your coilovers as needed, but be sure to test drive the car after installation to ensure it handles correctly.
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Testing the coilovers
Once you have fitted your coilovers, you'll want to test them out. It's important to test them on a variety of road surfaces to get a true feel for the handling and ride quality.
Begin by taking your Mk1 Golf for a test drive on a smooth road, at around 60mph. You can then assess how the car handles at speed on a flat surface. The car should feel solid, with minimal body roll. Next, try driving on a typical London street, with speed bumps and potholes. Here, you'll experience how the coilovers handle at slower speeds, around 15mph, on a bumpy road. You may find that you need to slow right down to navigate these roads.
You can also test the arch clearance by jacking up the car underneath the wishbone and pushing the wheel up into the arch. This will give you an idea of how much clearance you have and help you avoid any potential scrapes.
Finally, you can experiment with different settings and ride heights. For example, you could try raising the car by 10mm to see if it improves the ride quality. You may find that the higher the coilovers are raised, the less travel there is, which could impact handling. Adjustments like this will help you find the perfect setup for your needs.
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Frequently asked questions
You will need the following tools: 13mm spanner and socket, 17mm spanner and socket, 22mm "swan neck" spanner, C-spanner, tape measure, water pump pliers (or mole grips), Allen Keys, and a magnetic camber measure (optional).
You will need the following parts: coilovers, new top mounts (Febi is a good brand), new top mount spacers, new rear bolts and nuts, and motorbike chain wax (Castrol is recommended).
It is recommended to do the back springs first, as it takes about 20-30 minutes and is one less thing to worry about when fitting the fronts.
You can adjust the height by winding the coilovers up or down using a C-spanner. For the rears, wind the coils down and screw on the nut while holding the flat of the strut with water pump pliers.
There are several budget-friendly coilover kits available for the Mk1 Golf. The Hotuning Set (Tuning Art) and the Jamex Extreme Kit are two options that have received relatively positive reviews. The Bilstein Febi kit is also mentioned as a good quality option that is easy to install.
